Rolex Day-Date Buying Guide

Rolex Day-Date
Buying Guide

The Rolex Day-Date is one of the brand’s most recognisable models. Launched in 1956, it was the first wristwatch to feature both the day of the week written in full and the date, displayed together on the dial. It is produced exclusively in precious metals—yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, and platinum—and is typically fitted with the President bracelet, which was developed specifically for this model.

The Day-Date is often associated with heads of state, business leaders, and public figures, and has long been positioned by Rolex as a top-tier option within its catalogue. Available in various case sizes, dial types, and configurations, it appeals to collectors as well as those looking for a watch with a strong presence and proven demand on the secondary market.

This guide outlines the key features, materials, and reference numbers to be aware of when buying a Rolex Day-Date. It also covers pricing, value retention, and how to navigate the pre-owned market.

‍A Brief History
Key Details
Case Sizes
Case Materials
Bracelet Options

Bezel Styles
Dial Options
References to Know
Price Guide & Value Retention
Why Collectors Buy Pre-Owned

A Brief History of the Day-Date

The Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956 with the reference 6511, marking the first time a wristwatch displayed both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full through apertures on the dial. The day display was offered in a range of languages, and the model was positioned at the top of the Rolex range from the outset.

In 1959, the reference 1803 was released, which became one of the most recognisable vintage Day-Date references. It featured a pie-pan dial, fluted bezel, and was fitted with the President bracelet, a three-piece semi-circular link design that would become closely associated with the model.

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Rolex introduced incremental improvements, including the quickset date feature in the reference 18038, and later, the double quickset movement in the 18238, allowing independent setting of the day and date.

In 2008, Rolex introduced the Day-Date II (Ref. 218xxx) with a 41mm case, aimed at those seeking a larger presence on the wrist. This model was discontinued in 2015 and replaced by the Day-Date 40, which featured a slightly smaller and more proportionate case design, along with the updated Calibre 3255 movement.

Today, the Day-Date is available in 36mm and 40mm sizes and continues to be offered only in precious metals. The model has also become a platform for Rolex to experiment with a wide range of dial materials and colours, including enamel, stone, and meteorite, along with limited or region-specific configurations.

Key Details at a Glance

Feature

Details

Model Name

Rolex Day-Date

Introduced

1956

Complications

Day of the week (in full) and date display

Available Sizes

36mm, 40mm (core models); 41mm (Day-Date II, discontinued); 39mm (Masterpiece only)

Case Materials

Yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, platinum

Bracelet Type

President (standard); rare variants include Oyster, leather (vintage), Pearlmaster (gem-set)

Bezel Options

Fluted (gold only), smooth, factory-set diamond bezels

Dial Options

Wide range including classic, stone, lacquered (Stella), meteorite, and gem-set

Movement

Automatic; current models use Calibre 3255

Water Resistance

100 metres (modern models)

Exclusivity

Only available in precious metals – no steel or two-tone versions

Common Nickname

"President" (due to the bracelet and association with U.S. presidents)

Day-Date Case Sizes

The Rolex Day-Date is available in multiple case sizes, with each version reflecting different eras, design preferences, and wrist proportions.

36mm – Traditional Proportion

The 36mm case has been the core Day-Date size since the model's launch in 1956. It continues to be offered in Rolex's current catalogue and is often preferred by collectors for its historical significance and classic profile. The 36mm version is suitable for most wrist sizes and is available with a full range of dial, bezel, and metal combinations.

41mm – Day-Date II (2008–2015)

The Day-Date II, introduced in 2008, increased the case size to 41mm and was aimed at buyers looking for a larger wristwatch. It featured thicker lugs and a broader bezel, giving it a more robust appearance. While it attracted new audiences at the time, it was discontinued in 2015 and replaced by the better-proportioned Day-Date 40.

40mm – Day-Date 40 (2015–Present)

The Day-Date 40 replaced the Day-Date II in 2015. It features a more refined 40mm case and houses the Calibre 3255 movement, offering improved power reserve and timekeeping precision. The 40mm version remains in production and offers a slightly more modern look while retaining the overall style of the Day-Date line.

Smaller and Vintage Variants

In addition to the main sizes, Rolex has produced a limited number of Day-Date-style models in 31mm and 34mm case sizes, primarily aimed at women. These are not part of the core Day-Date line and are typically vintage or discontinued models.

Special Edition: Day-Date Masterpiece (39mm)

Rolex has also produced a low-volume, special edition variation known as the Day-Date Masterpiece. Sometimes referred to as the “Pearlmaster Day-Date,” this model features a 39mm case, making it the only Day-Date to be produced in this size. It is fitted with the Pearlmaster bracelet and is typically offered with gem-set bezels, dials, or bracelets, targeting the high-jewellery market. These watches are rare, produced only in precious metals, and are no longer part of Rolex’s current catalogue.

Case Materials

The Rolex Day-Date is produced exclusively in precious metals. No models have ever been offered in stainless steel or two-tone, which reinforces its position at the top of the Rolex catalogue. The four metals used—yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, and platinum—each offer different visual characteristics and wrist feel.

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is the most traditional material used for the Day-Date and has been available since the model’s launch in 1956. It has a warm tone and a prominent wrist presence. The case and bracelet are typically fully polished, and the bezel is usually fluted.

Yellow gold Day-Dates are widely available across vintage and modern references and offer a substantial feel on the wrist. They are often paired with champagne, black, or silver dials.

Everose Gold

Everose gold is Rolex’s proprietary rose gold alloy, introduced in 2005. It contains a higher percentage of copper along with a small amount of platinum to stabilise the colour over time. Everose gold has a reddish, coppery tone and is slightly warmer than standard rose gold used by other brands. These models are available with either fluted or diamond-set bezels and are typically fully polished.

Popular dial pairings include chocolate, olive green, and sundust.

Platinum

Platinum is the most prestigious and dense metal used in the Day-Date line. It is significantly heavier than gold—up to 50% heavier in comparable models—and is often chosen for its weight and exclusivity. Most platinum Day-Dates feature a smooth bezel, although recent references such as 228236 have reintroduced the fluted bezel in platinum.

Platinum Day-Dates typically feature glacier blue dials, a colour exclusive to Rolex’s platinum models, but meteorite and diamond-set dials are also available.

Bracelet Options

The Rolex Day-Date is most closely associated with the President bracelet, which was developed specifically for the model. While this remains the standard and most recognisable bracelet style, there have been a few other configurations over the years, including rare and discontinued options.

President Bracelet

The President bracelet is the default bracelet for all modern Day-Date models and has been in use since 1959. It features a three-piece link design with semi-circular, polished centre links and brushed outer links. The bracelet is fitted with a concealed Crownclasp, which maintains a seamless look when closed.

It is produced exclusively in precious metals (yellow, white, Everose gold, or platinum) to match the case. The President bracelet is known for being comfortable on the wrist while offering a visually distinctive and refined appearance.

Oyster Bracelet (Vintage and Rare)

While not part of the standard configuration, some vintage Day-Date models were fitted with the Oyster bracelet, especially in the 1970s and early 1980s. The Oyster bracelet features a flat, three-piece link design and was sometimes ordered via special request. These examples are now considered unusual and collectible, particularly when paired with factory-original dials and bezels.

The Oyster bracelet is more commonly associated with Rolex’s sports models, such as the Submariner and GMT-Master, and was never a widespread option for the Day-Date.

Leather Strap (Discontinued)

Several Day-Date references—particularly those from the 1990s and early 2000s—were offered on factory leather straps, typically in black or brown. These watches featured gold deployant clasps and are sometimes found under reference numbers such as 118138 and 118139 (Day-Date 36 models).

Leather-strap Day-Dates have since been discontinued and are no longer part of the modern lineup. They offer a more traditional dress watch look and are sometimes favoured by buyers who prefer a slimmer overall profile.

Pearlmaster Bracelet (Masterpiece Models)

The Day-Date Masterpiece models (also known as “Pearlmaster Day-Dates”) are fitted with the Pearlmaster bracelet. This bracelet features rounded five-piece links and is produced only in precious metals, often with factory-set diamonds or gemstones.

The Pearlmaster bracelet is not interchangeable with other Day-Date models and is exclusive to certain high-jewellery editions, typically with 39mm cases.

Bezel Styles

The bezel is a key visual element of the Rolex Day-Date and plays an important role in defining the overall appearance of the watch. Several bezel types have been used across the Day-Date’s history, with certain styles exclusive to specific metals or models. The main bezel options include fluted, smooth, and gem-set varieties.

Fluted Bezel

The fluted bezel is the most recognisable and traditional bezel style on the Day-Date. It features sharp, reflective ridges and is made exclusively from 18ct gold (yellow, white, or Everose). Fluted bezels are typically paired with the President bracelet and are standard on most current-production Day-Date 36 and Day-Date 40 models in gold.

Platinum models were historically only available with smooth bezels, but as of 2022, Rolex has introduced fluted bezels in platinum with references such as 228236, marking a significant design update.

Smooth Bezel

The smooth bezel is flat and polished, offering a more minimalist appearance. It is most often found on platinum models and occasionally on vintage white or yellow gold references.

The smooth bezel is associated with a more understated look and is generally seen on Day-Dates fitted with stone or high-jewellery dials.

Gem-Set Bezel

Some Day-Date models are fitted with factory-set diamond or gemstone bezels, which are exclusive to high-jewellery references. These may feature brilliant-cut diamonds, baguette diamonds and coloured sapphires (rare rainbow variants).

Gem-set bezels are most often paired with diamond dials or the Pearlmaster bracelet on Day-Date Masterpiece models.

Bezel Style by Metal

Metal

Fluted Bezel

Smooth Bezel

Gem-Set Bezel

Yellow Gold

✔ Standard

✔ Rare (mainly vintage)

✔ Available (diamonds/sapphires)

White Gold

✔ Standard

✔ Rare (mainly vintage)

✔ Available (factory-set only)

Everose Gold

✔ Standard

✘ Not typically offered

✔ Available (often paired with diamond dials)

Platinum

✔ Introduced in 2022 (Ref. 228236)

✔ Standard

✔ Available (high-jewellery pieces)

Dial Options

The Rolex Day-Date has one of the most diverse and expansive ranges of dial configurations in the brand’s catalogue. Over the decades, Rolex has used the Day-Date as a platform to introduce everything from traditional sunburst finishes to exotic materials and region-specific signatures.

Classic Dials (Standard Production)

These are the most common dial styles and are available across both 36mm and 40mm models in current and recent production. They typically feature a sunburst or satin finish, with roman numerals, golf batons or diamond indicies.

Popular Colours:

Champagne
Black
White
Silver

Blue
Chocolate
Sundust
Green (notably olive green on Everose gold Day-Date 40 models)

Stella Dials (Vintage & Modern)

Stella dials are high-gloss enamel dials, originally introduced in the 1970s, mainly for markets in the Middle East and Asia. These were paired with 36mm Day-Date references such as the 1803 and 18038, often with pie-pan cases and smooth bezels.

Vintage Stella Colours include:

Coral
Turquoise
Yellow

Red
Green
Mauve

In 2020, Rolex reintroduced the concept with modern lacquer dials in similarly bright colours. These are currently available on Day-Date 36 models (Ref. 128xxx) in gold.

Decorative and Gem-Set Dials

Rolex has employed a variety of decorative materials and gem settings across Day-Date models, particularly in precious metal references. These unique dials are generally positioned at the higher end of the Day-Date range and are popular with collectors interested in natural materials and low-production configurations.

Stone Dials: Lapis lazuli, malachite, onyx, tiger’s eye, jasper, aventurine, and others. Each stone has a natural variation in colour and pattern. Most are found in Day-Date 36 models, particularly from the 1970s to 1990s.
Mother-of-Pearl (MOP): Iridescent dials, often paired with diamond hour markers. Common in modern yellow, white, and Everose gold models.
Meteorite Dials: Cut from natural meteorite material and etched to reveal its unique crystalline structure. Typically used in platinum or white gold references.
Diamond-Set Dials: Available across both vintage and modern Day-Dates, these may feature round or baguette-cut diamond hour markers, or full pavé settings. Often paired with gem-set bezels.

Special and Regional Dials

Some Day-Date dials were produced in limited quantities for specific markets or retailers, making them highly collectible.

‍Key examples:

Arabic and Eastern Arabic Dials: Day or numerals displayed in Arabic script. Produced primarily for the Middle East, often paired with green, silver, or champagne dials.
Khanjar (Omani Crest) Dials: Commissioned by the Sultan of Oman and often featuring the national dagger emblem. Usually found on 36mm models from the 1970s–1990s, often double-signed with Asprey.
Other Double-Signed Dials: Co-branded with retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Beyer, or Serpico y Laino. Rare and valued for their provenance.

Novelty Dials

In 2023, Rolex introduced a limited series of Day-Date 36 models with playful and unconventional dial designs. These include enamel puzzle motif dials featuring emojis on the date disc and inspirational words (e.g. “Love”, “Gratitude”) replacing the day display.

These models are produced in low numbers and are aimed at collectors seeking something outside of traditional Rolex design language.

Reference Numbers to Know

Understanding Day-Date reference numbers is essential for identifying the generation, movement, and key features of a watch. These references are typically grouped by case size and era, and knowing how they compare can help buyers target the models that best match their preferences.

Reference

Production Years

Case Size

Key Features

1803

1956–1977

36mm

Iconic vintage model with pie-pan dial, acrylic crystal, and non-quickset movement (Cal. 1556). Widely collected in yellow, white, and rose gold.

18038

1977–1988

36mm

Transitional reference with sapphire crystal and single quickset (Cal. 3055). Commonly seen with stone and Stella dials.

18238

1988–2000

36mm

Introduced the double quickset movement (Cal. 3155). Improved bracelet and wide range of dial options.

118238

2000–2019

36mm

Modernised 36mm model with polished lugs, solid bracelet links, and updated clasp. Still powered by Cal. 3155.

128238

2019–Present

36mm

Current Day-Date 36 reference with Cal. 3255 movement, improved power reserve and accuracy. Available with lacquer, classic, and diamond dials.

218238

2008–2015

41mm

Day-Date II with bold case proportions and Cal. 3156 movement. Discontinued and replaced by Day-Date 40.

228238

2015–Present

40mm

Day-Date 40 with refined case dimensions and Cal. 3255. Flagship model available in all precious metals.

228236

2022–Present

40mm

First platinum Day-Date to feature a fluted bezel. Retains the Cal. 3255 and exclusive glacier blue dials.

18948/18956/18958

Early 2000s (Masterpiece)

39mm

High-jewellery Day-Date models with Pearlmaster bracelet. Often gem-set; produced in low numbers and not part of core Day-Date line.

Four-Digit References (1956–Late 1970s)

The earliest Day-Date references include models like the 6511 (the original 1956 release) and the long-running 1803, which became the defining vintage Day-Date. These watches featured 36mm cases, acrylic crystals, and non-quickset movements such as the Calibre 1556. The 1803 is the most recognised model from this period, available in yellow, white, or rose gold, often with pie-pan dials and applied markers. Other notable variants include the 6611, with chronometer certification, and the 1804, which featured factory diamond bezels. These watches are sought after for their vintage styling and early Rolex dial variations.

Five-Digit References (Late 1970s–Late 1990s)

Rolex transitioned to more modern materials and movements in this period, starting with the 18038, which introduced a sapphire crystal and the Calibre 3055 movement with a quickset date. It marked the move from vintage to transitional design and was available with a wide range of dial options, including stone and Stella dials. In 1988, the 18238 followed with the Calibre 3155, offering a double quickset function for both day and date. White gold equivalents included the 18039 and 18239, while gem-set bezel versions such as the 18048 and 18248 catered to high-jewellery buyers. These references remain popular on the pre-owned market and offer a good balance between vintage charm and everyday usability.

Six-Digit References – Day-Date 36 (2000s–Present)

The six-digit era brought technical and cosmetic refinements to the 36mm Day-Date. The 118238, introduced in 2000, retained the Calibre 3155 movement but updated the case with polished lugs, solid bracelet links, and an improved clasp. In 2019, it was succeeded by the 128238, which introduced the Calibre 3255, offering improved timekeeping and a 70-hour power reserve. Both models maintain the classic Day-Date profile, but the 128xxx series offers greater movement efficiency and finishing improvements.

Six-Digit References – Day-Date 40 (2015–Present)

The Day-Date 40 was introduced in 2015 as a replacement for the Day-Date II, offering a more refined 40mm case with updated proportions. These models use the Calibre 3255 and are produced in yellow, white, and Everose gold, as well as platinum. Key references include the 228238 (yellow gold), 228239 (white gold), 228235 (Everose gold), and 228206 (platinum with smooth bezel). In 2022, Rolex released the 228236, which introduced the first-ever fluted bezel in platinum. These models are considered the flagship in Rolex’s modern lineup.

Day-Date II (2008–2015)

The Day-Date II, launched in 2008, increased the case size to 41mm and introduced the Calibre 3156. References such as the 218238 feature broader bezels, thicker lugs, and a bolder overall design compared to later Day-Date 40 models. While discontinued in 2015, the Day-Date II appeals to those who prefer more substantial proportions on the wrist.

Masterpiece Models (39mm)

The Day-Date Masterpiece, also referred to as the Pearlmaster Day-Date, was produced in limited numbers with a 39mm case and fitted with the Pearlmaster bracelet. References such as the 18948, 18956, and 18958 were available only in precious metals and often featured diamond-set bezels, dials, or bracelets. These watches are not part of the core Day-Date line but are of particular interest to collectors focused on rare or high-jewellery variants.

May 30, 2025 | View: 41 | By: <a class="mp-info" href="https://www.watchcentre.com/news/author/admin">Admin</a>

Rolex Day-Date Buying Guide

Rolex Day-DateBuying Guide

Contents

A Brief History of the Day-Date

Key Details at a Glance

Day-Date Case Sizes

36mm – Traditional Proportion

41mm – Day-Date II (2008–2015)

40mm – Day-Date 40 (2015–Present)

Smaller and Vintage Variants

Special Edition: Day-Date Masterpiece (39mm)

Case Materials

Yellow Gold

Everose Gold

Platinum

Bracelet Options

President Bracelet

Oyster Bracelet (Vintage and Rare)

Leather Strap (Discontinued)

Pearlmaster Bracelet (Masterpiece Models)

Bezel Styles

Fluted Bezel

Smooth Bezel

Gem-Set Bezel

Bezel Style by Metal

Dial Options

Classic Dials (Standard Production)

Stella Dials (Vintage & Modern)

Decorative and Gem-Set Dials

Special and Regional Dials

Novelty Dials

Reference Numbers to Know

Four-Digit References (1956–Late 1970s)

Five-Digit References (Late 1970s–Late 1990s)

Six-Digit References – Day-Date 36 (2000s–Present)

Six-Digit References – Day-Date 40 (2015–Present)

Day-Date II (2008–2015)

Masterpiece Models (39mm)

About the Author

Rolex Day-Date
Buying Guide